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Experiences You Should Have Podcast Show Notes
Smith Rock is a deep canyon with a river running through it, with huge rock towers on one side on what is mostly a flat landscape. It’s a world-renowned place for rock climbing. It’s nestled in the heart of Central Oregon in the town of Terrebonne (40 minutes north of Bend) and is a destination you need to add to your bucket list, especially if you’re a rock climber.
Interview with Cliff Agocs, Owner and Guide at Smith Rock Climbing School
Listen to the above podcast interview with Cliff Agocs. In his early days of climbing, Cliff and his friend quit their jobs and came to Smith Rock to learn Anchoring. It involves clipping attachments to the rock and pulling up on them; taking a nylon ladder and clipping it to an anchor in the rock. They wanted to learn that skill set and learning and practicing that at Smith Rock is one of the best places to do that. Read below to learn more (or listen above) about rock climbing at Smith Rock.
What Put Smith Rock on the Map as a Rock Climbing Destination?
In the 1980s, climbers at Smith Rock realized that there were features that could be clipped onto what appeared to be a fairly smooth-faced rock. Previously climbers had just used crack systems in rocks to climb. They repelled down from the top and began putting in bolts. Nowhere else in the United States had this been done and revolutionized climbing.
What if you’ve never rock climbed before, can you rock climb at Smith Rock?
Smith Rock has climbs for every ability of climber, but you still need to have a solid understanding of anchoring and rope-work. How complex that understanding needs to be, depends on the type of rock climbing you want to do, in addition to the difficulty.
You need to have good body movement; know how your body works with the rock to learn how to move efficiently. Know the technical skills: how to use a harness, belay systems and how to share a climbing partnership, constructing anchors. You can learn these things outside with a guide or in a climbing gym.
What Type of Gear Do You Need to Climb at Smith Rock?
- Rock climbing shoes
- Harness
- Helmet
- Bring a stick-clip if you are leading your own climbs. (Smith Rock the first bolts are notoriously high and stick clips are pretty standard.
- Ropes and Anchoring Gear*
*Make sure you have the knowledge on how to use ropes and anchoring gear correctly. This is where a rock climbing guide can come in handy.
Once you get into building anchors, you’ll have an assortment of carabiners, camming devices, and nylon webbing and cord in addition to a rope that is manufactured specifically for rock climbing.
What Should You Bring with you (other than gear)?
- A variety of layers for the day. It can be everything from cold to hot to rainy all in the same day and you’ll still be completely tired long before the sun goes down.
- Plenty of water and sunscreen.
- Sunglasses
- Food
- Face Mask (during COVID times)
Is There Adaptive Rock Climbing at Smith Rock for Those with Limited Mobility?
For those with limited mobility, there’s a great organization called the Oregon Adaptive Sports. There are different ways to adaptive climb, depending on mobility. It’s become a popular thing in the last few years, and there are tools and growing industries for those folks who do have limited mobility. There is a wheelchair-accessible gravel road to get down into the canyon. Some areas are hard to get to, but a lot of work has been done over the years to make things more accessible.
Is Rock Climbing at Smith Rock Kid Friendly?
Cliff has taken kids as young as 5 rock climbing at Smith Rock, but recommends children being at least 7 or 8 for this experience.
Why Hire a Rock Climbing Guide at Smith Rock?
Guides are a great investment for several different types of climbers. Independent climbers can hire guides selectively to build their skill set. These are hard and potentially dangerous techniques and it’s important to get accurate instruction from someone qualified to give it to you, so that you learn the right way, and can move on to having your next adventure. Families can hire guides to help make memories on vacation.
Even experienced climbers might do so to make the most out of their vacation, rather than spend a bunch of time trying to get to know a place – a guide can take you to the best climbs at your grade, without a ton of trial and error and wasted time. New climbers can hire a guide to see if it’s right for them and rest assured knowing that a certified guide has been trained.
Prices can range from $390 to $510 for between 1 and 6 climbers. Smith Rock Climbing School includes gear in the cost.
Cliff’s Favorite Route at Smith Rock
One of Cliff’s favorite routes at Smith Rock is called Wartley’s Revenge. It’s a really classic crack climb. Smith is largely known for bolted climbing, but Wartley’s Revenge ascends a steep and jagged crack, using only traditional protection, placed by the climber as they go up the rock. It’s a really stunning climb.
Where to go for Food and Drinks When Leaving Smith Rock?
As you’re leaving the park, make sure you stop and eat at the Terrebonne Depot. They have great Oregon beer, food and wait a few minutes to be able to eat on the deck.
The Redpoint rock climbing shop in Terrebonne sells and rents equipment, beer, cider, and kombucha. It’s a great gathering spot at the end of the day for climbers.