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Podcast Show Notes – Interview with Lynn Smith
Lynn and her friend went on a 1600 mile road trip through Utah and the Southwest. They found that the most soulful experiences were the mind-blowing drives between Zion and Monument Valley. And found Arches National Park to be quite stunning.
This podcast with Lynn Smith will take you through hidden gems and areas around Arches National Park and beyond. So sit back, plug in your headphones, and listen to the episode above (or read the show notes below).
Journey to Arches National Park from Monument Valley
MOKI DUGWAY is a great example of a Hidden Gem drive. It’s a section of a National Scenic Byway called the Trail of the Ancients, which runs through Colorado and Utah.
“Moki” is a local term for the ancient Pueblo people who inhabited the Colorado Plateau hundreds of years ago. “Dugway” is a term used to describe a roadway carved from a hillside. And this thing is sure dug in- all three miles of woo-hoo. It’s a steep, graded gravel road that winds uphill to Cedar Mesa with 1,200 ft of dizzying switchbacks.
At every turn, Lynn looked over her shoulder and saw eye-popping views of the Valley of the Gods. The desert below receded further and further. In the dim distance, the buttes of Monument Valley decorated the horizon.
Hidden Gem: Muley Point
If you go, you absolutely need to stop at Muley Point (5,700 feet elevation). At the top, you can see expansive views of the Valley of the Gods, Monument Valley, the Sleeping Ute in Colorado, & more.
This Hidden Gem drive runs 34 miles north, from the junction of U.S. Route 163 near the town of Mexican Hat, Utah. It goes to the junction with State Route 95, just east of Natural Bridges National Monument.
This is off the Interstates route that most travelers take, and was so worth adding 45 minutes if you are coming to Moab from Monument Valley. If you have a fear of heights or vertigo, or just don’t care to drive along the steep dirt road with no guardrails, you might want to stay on those interstates!
to MOAB from Muley Point- 2 hrs
Head to Devil’s Garden first, especially if you plan to hike there.
WHY DEVIL’s GARDEN TRAIL?
It’s popular and the parking lot gets full early (by 8:30!) and stays that way most of the day. Considered the only “hiker’s hike” in the park, the casual walker can also get a lot for a little effort by walking the early section of this 9 -mile trail.
Top Trails to Check Out at Arches
- The trails to Landscape Arch
- Pine Tree Arch
- Tunnel Arch
These are well maintained and family-friendly, but they are loose gravel. Beyond that, you’ll see signs warning of the “primitive trail”, which means sections of slick rock with the trail marked in rock cairns, and some dizzying precipices offering 360 degree, vertigo-enticing views.
Hike the loop in a clockwise direction for the best views and fewer crowds, beginning with Landscape Arch, the longest arch in the park and the fifth-longest arch in the world. It’s well lit in the early morning, and an easy 1.5 miles to the arch. Most visitors to Devil’s Garden turn around here, but if you carry on, you’ll be rewarded with jaw-dropping 360-degree views of the exquisite variations of red rock.
>DELICATE ARCH HIKE for SUNSET
Delicate Arch is iconic Arch that Arches is known for. Check your sunset times, but make sure you arrive early as it’s a popular destination. Also, bring a light with you for your walk back to your car.
Scenic Viewpoints You don’t want to Miss
Do Not Miss stops along the 36 -mile (round trip) scenic drive through the park, including:
- Panorama Point
- The Windows section
- Park Avenue
- Double Arch.
Biking at ARches national Park
ROAD BIKES
Ride along a route that is entirely on smooth National Park Service roads; elevation ranges from 4,097 feet at the Arches National Park Visitor Center to 5,173 feet approaching Devils Garden.
Start at the Park Visitor Center. Park here and get on your bicycle. Note that there is a $10 entrance fee for motor vehicles, or you can ride to the park from Moab, about 5 miles.
MOUNTAIN BIKING
You mountain bikers already know that Moab is one of the world’s premier mountain biking destinations…
NPS brochures and online tips for ARCHES NP are the best.
ACCESSIBILITY in ARCHES:
- Visitor Center Ramp and reserved parking & restrooms are accessible.
- Devils Garden, Park Avenue Viewpoint, Delicate Arch Viewpoint, Balanced Rock Viewpoint are fantastic accessible viewpoints.
- Wolfe Ranch Cabin/Rock Art Panel is a must-see.
DID YOU KNOW? Opening scenes from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade were shot in Seven Mile Canyon in the park? You can hike here and see petroglyphs and pictographs.
Dead Horse Point State Park
Dead Horse Point State Park: They drove about 30 miles, across stunning desert landscapes, from Arches to Dead Horse Point State Park for late afternoon and sunset shots.
The drive there was a revelation! They started out with a climb through narrow canyon walls, up to an apparently never-ending desert plateau. Wonderful views of Arches in the rearview mirror and the Henry Mountains and the San Rafael Reef ahead of us were mesmerizing.
Dead Horse Point was easily one of the most spectacular views they experienced throughout their trip. As they approached their first viewpoint, Lynn got chill bumps in spite of the heat of the afternoon. This is considered one of the most photographed scenic vistas in the world.
From the point, they got a sweeping panoramic view, from approx. 6,000 feet altitude, of the amazing sculpted pinnacles and buttes of Canyonlands National Park and The Needles. Way below us, some 2,000 feet, was the signature scene of gooseneck of the Colorado River, which features prominently in almost any shot of Dead Horse Point. When you see it, you’ll understand why.
What makes these vistas so special? To Lynn, the horizons just seemed to go on forever–no matter where they walked along the rim, whether they were looking south or east or southwest or west. The line of sight is over 100 miles on a clear day. In her series of photos in her travel blog post of this trip, you can see several curtains of rain at different compass points on the endless horizon, and more than one rainbow! Believe me, this was one captivating place.
Dead Horse Point State Park Facts
- Why the name? In the late 1800s, cowboys left horses on this plateau as a sort of natural corral, or as a place to leave behind unwanted wild horses. Left alone with little water in the heat, it was common for the horses to die.
- From Moab to Dead Horse Point State Park- the route passes through 14 miles of majestic red rock canyon country. Stop at pull-offs for Seven Mile Canyon, the massive Monitor and Merrimac buttes, views of the San Rafael Reef and the Henry Mountains.
- Numerous opportunities in the late afternoon for photography along this drive- just time your arrival to Dead Horse Point Overlook as the sunset hour begins\ so that you can explore the many potential angles for photos.
- Many movie scenes have been shot from Dead Horse Point, including scenes from Disney’s Lone Ranger, Mission Impossible II, and old westerns like The Comancheros.
- This is an International Dark Sky Park- if I’d had the time, I would have stayed for starfield shots. They would have been mind-blowing!
- Altogether, their drives, hikes, and backcountry explorations “off the beaten path” from Monument Valley to Arches and Dead Horse Point, and onward to Capitol Reef and further, to Bryce and Zion, were simply magical. I think, no- I know I left a piece of my heart somewhere among the red rocks, the towering mesas, the endless canyons of soulful silences, and those far, far horizons.
top Tips for Visiting Arches and Dead HOrse
U.S. Park Passes:
You will save a LOT of money if you buy, ahead of time, either the America the Beautiful annual pass ($80.00 for 1 pass, good for all persons in a shared vehicle) or a Senior Pass ($20.00 annual pass). Considering the cost per vehicle per entry is between $20.00-$35.00 at national parks, the pass will pay for itself after just a couple of visits to national parks, monuments, battlefields, and even state parks (the Hidden Gems in the USA.)
Proper Weather Planning
Be prepared for the elements. Bring proper hardware, sunscreen and the right clothing for morning, afternoon and evening.
Rent an SUV
Rent an SUV, not a car. While major interstates, state roads, and many National Park main roads are well paved, it doesn’t take much to get off-road in such remote desert and mountainous areas.
Scenic roads like the Moki Dugway and Kolob Terrace Road change from paved to graded gravel and loose sand. The 17-mile scenic Valley Drive at The View Hotel in Monument Valley, AZ is a must-do, but you will absolutely want to get up off those layered sandstone rocks, deep potholes and football-sized rocks that make up the dirt road. And if you plan to hike any of the lesser-known trails and slot canyons, you will most certainly be traveling down dirt or deep sandy roads that vary in the quality of the graded surface.
Be Flexible
Plan flexible activities. Lynn had Plan A, Plan B and Plan C options for each major stop (National Parks) based on vagaries of weather, water height in The Narrows at Zion, and potential flooding of slot canyons due to the onset of monsoon season in southern AZ.
Plan your Food & Water
Plan for food, water, and special foods. The distances they traveled were vast, with few towns in between. In major towns, they easily topped off with gas and grabbed a bite to eat. They carried gallons of water in the car, and a large Styrofoam cooler with ice, snacks, and beverages. They knew ahead of time what was where, and where the big gaps in all services appeared along their route.
Be Ready to Unplug
Don’t count on cell service or WiFi. Forget consistent service, you are in the endless terrain of the deserts and canyonlands. WiFi may not be available even where advertised. Download any maps you’ll need before their trip or when you do have WiFi. Or, buy a state road map and mark it up. Old School still works, just saying.
How much Does it Cost to go to Arches and Dead Horse?
Costs, in addition to hotel stays, food, gas etc., should factor in your entry into Arches ($30/vehicle, good for 7 days), $20/vehicle for Dead Horse (good for 3 days) and $20/vehicle for Capitol Reef (good for 7 days).
Like Lynn’s Travel Style?
Check out these other Experiences You Should Have podcast episodes with Lynn.
- Osa Peninsula in Costa Rica
- Monument Valley, Utah